Paula Mourão

Jewellery maker

Statement jewellery inspired by Rio’s vibrancy

Paula makes experimental jewellery pieces in which she combines unexpected materials
Her pieces explore shapes, colours and materials with elegant exuberance
Her father founded Rio de Janeiro’s first jewellery school which she joined in 1981

Paula Mourão creates jewellery pieces using metals in combination with unexpected materials such as rubber and cotton threads. Born and raised in Rio de Janeiro, she fondly remembers her fascination when watching her father Caio Mourão work as a jewellery maker. “I was 22 when he officially taught me the art of jewellery making. I was destined to follow in his footsteps," Paula says. She realised she was also a jewellery maker when she made a hundred pieces for her first solo exhibition. Paula’s pieces, inspired by her city’s vibrancy, also reflect her curiosity to go beyond traditional metals. In 1981, she joined Rio de Janeiro’s first jewellery school which her father had founded. To this day, Paula continues to teach a myriad of techniques to aspiring jewellery makers, so they too can trust their emotion and intuition to transform metal and materials into unique pieces of jewellery.

Interview

What defines your jewellery making?: I use ancient jewellery techniques, especially enamel on metals. However, I combine them with materials that may not be considered or valued in the art of jewellery making, such as rubber. I also like to use rough gemstones in their unpolished form, just as they came out from the rock.
Where do you find inspiration for your statement pieces?: My city, Rio, inspires me for its exuberance in terms of shapes and colours. It compels me to find materials that translate what I see and feel. My work is not rational, I do not draw the jewellery piece beforehand. My ideas are directly transmitted to the metal.
Why is teaching your craft so important to you?: Teaching is what I love the most about my practice as a jewellery maker. My father taught me, and I am able to teach others, helping them find their own language. I get to witness their enchantment as they manage to bring to life the jewellery piece they envisioned.
What advice do you have for those interested in jewellery making?: Embrace your work as a jewellery artist. Follow your emotions, and do not worry about what others are doing. Learn as many techniques as you can – that is what will spark your creativity. Be bold and always experiment. It is fine if you make a mistake, you can always melt the metal down and start over!

Paula Mourão is a master artisan: she began her career in 1981 and she started teaching in 1982