Ülle Kõuts

Jewellery maker

©Mats Õun

©Liina Lõõbas

A marriage of metals

Ülle makes jewellery with precious metals
She works methodically, step by step
She melts metals into unique graphic patterns

Ülle Kõuts has been working with precious metals for over two decades, from the Soviet era when working with metals was forbidden, through the years since Estonian independence, during which independent craft businesses have boomed. She has seen and experienced it all, from tight restrictive craft methods to the more liberal ways of being an artisan. Her works are like pieces of refined design in various combinations of metals. She melts metals into unique graphic patterns that can be worn as everyday accessories. Her works have been exhibited in numerous exhibitions across Europe, Estonia and the US. Through hard work, she even won the main prize of the Baltic Youth Applied Arts Triennale, to mention just a few of her accolades.

Interview

©Mats Õun

©Mats Õun

How would you define what you do?: I do what I want to do and nobody tells me what I can or cannot do, rather than working in a factory where there would be rules and guidelines to be followed. I have two different lines: one is real wearables and the other is exhibition jewellery. Some of the exhibition pieces inspire future wearable series.
What should people know about your craft?: When people look at my jewellery, they don’t know that behind its beautiful shine and lustre, the process of reaching that end result is a dirty job! A lot of polishing is required and there is a lot of paste all over the place. It can't be compared to, for instance, textiles where you can even work with a manicure!
What techniques do you use?: The most common technique I use is the 'marriage of metals' where I combine various precious metals such as sterling silver, copper and gold by soldering them side by side either in the form of stripes or dots.
What's your working process like?: My process is like walking; I work step by step and don’t jump from one thing to another. It’s a pretty methodical process. I also realise that the more I work the better I become at my craft and the clearer my visions are. One could say I walk in a straight line.

Ülle Kõuts is an expert artisan: she began her career in 1980