Jorge Manilla

Jewellery maker

©Arturo Haro

©Simon Debbaut LEcluse

©Arturo Haro

Deep, dark and daring art jewellery

Jorge comes from a family of jewellery makers
His work blends the ancestral with the avant-garde
He seeks to materialise and represent mental states in his pieces

Jorge Manilla's journey began in 1999, when he accidentally entered a jewellery workshop. “I wanted to enrol in the School of Design and Crafts in Mexico City, but not knowing the way to a specific workshop in another discipline, I mistakenly ended up in a jewellery class,” he recalls. “I am the fourth generation of jewellers in my family, and the sight of that place, with the fire burning and people working, took me straight back to my childhood. It was something familiar to me, something I had denied and refused to accept for personal reasons.” Jorge's work is characterised by the use of organic materials such as leather, wood, and even human bones, creating tactile, emotional, and conceptual pieces. “I am influenced by various ethnic groups like those of Papua New Guinea, the Ndani, the Korowai, the Mursi, and the Aucas. I also draw inspiration from visual artists, particularly sculptors like Anselm Kiefer, Jannis Kounellis, Franko B, Leonardo Drew, Diana Al-Hadid, Kader Attia, as well as jewellers like Bernhard Schobinger, Kadri Mälk, and Iris Eichenberg," explains the artisan.

Interview

©Simon Debbaut LEcluse

How have Mexico and Europe influenced your work?: I come from a family of jewellers and spent half my life in central Mexico City. I was exposed to and shaped by the strong influence of this craft. When I moved to Europe, I discovered a new side to the profession: the tradition, respect, and seriousness with which the craft is practised, but above all, the innovation and artistic influence in the craft.
Why are you so interested in ancestral techniques?: I am deeply passionate about ancient techniques and the tools used in the past. I always try to use these techniques in the most traditional way possible, to feel how they worked back then, and to see how the results differ when using modern tools.
Do the materials you work with have anything in common?: Yes, they mainly come from different parts of the world. I usually collect them during my travels, and when they make their way to Europe, they undergo a kind of migration process. This generates different interpretations, as they appear unfamiliar. It mirrors my own experience over the past 20 years of my life.
What is the most important thing for someone wanting to pursue your profession?: The most important thing is honesty with oneself and understanding that there are no quick results in this craft. It is about achieving mastery, which requires knowledge. One must never stop learning, working, and applying that knowledge.

Jorge Manilla is a master artisan: he began his career in 2003 and he started teaching in 2010